Left or Right Foot? A Photo Project About (Bi-) Nationality

The black is all-embracing. Only the light of the projector casts flags over the face of a person who is squinting into the darkness: the Turkish, the German, the Cypriot and the Russian flag. There is nothing else to see; you just hear the movements of the bulky camera. Paul-Ruben is standing behind the camera. “Don’t move”, he instructs the person in front of the camera while he captures each portrait. And this is a serious order because he uses a large format camera. This is the camera whose body looks like an accordion and which you may know from old movies. The photography student vanishes under the dark cloth and captures items with his camera. Full silence. No shrug, no blink is allowed. And just the poor light of the projector, which illuminates the people and leaves them the marks of the flag, serves as a source of light.

Most of the time there are multiple flags of different countries because Paul-Ruben Mundthal’s photo project “RADEBRECHT: A portrait series about in-betweenness” deals with nationality and how it effects the understanding for the own identity. How does it feel, if you need visa for the entry of the country where you grew up, if you are a stranger on paper, the not-belonging-person, in the country that you call homeland, if you have to decide between two passports for one, symbolising two countries´ traditions, culture and habits that you unite in one body?

“It feels like an amputation, like you have to decide for your left or right leg”, says Zeynep. She is one of the people that Paul-Ruben asked to stand in front of the objective. Zeynep grew up in Germany, her parents come from Turkey. The crescent of the Turkish flag and the three stripes of the German flag are shining on her face, as Paul-Ruben turns the objective of the camera to her.

Mehmet, who also gives his story and face to this project, could not decide. His parents moved from Bulgaria to Turkey in the 90s. At that time, he explains, Turkey and Bulgaria negotiated over the Bulgarian Turks, the minority to which his family belongs. They could resettle to Turkey without any great visa regulations and because they hoped for jobs and better living conditions, they packed their bags and moved. Then Mehmet became naturalised. Now he has the Turkish passport. He would prefer the Bulgarian one, also because of the reason, that the adoption of his name from the Cyrillic alphabet was a little bit sloppy. Mehmet (Мехмет) have become Mexmet. A real identity-commingling.

And, where are you from?

“The nationality, which you carry in your pocket, does not often correlate with your own feelings”, says Paul-Ruben. As he came as an Erasmus student to Turkey, the standard question of each first conversation was: Where are you from? For Paul-Ruben it is actually a question that he could easily answer. Grew up in Neubrandenburg, studied in Weimar, lives in Erfurt. Germany. However, the more people he met whose stories were more unusual, the more he realised that the system which is created by states with expressions like “citizenship” and “nationality”, does not do the global world in which we live justice.

Paul-Ruben is currently studying at Mimar Sinan University for a year. There, during the class “Gender and Identity” he came up with the idea of his portrait series. He wanted to look into the question of how much identity and nationality is linked with each other. During the research he realised how extensive this issue was and that it posed further questions: Where do you feel at home? What does this feeling define? And also, what does it mean to carry a passport of the country x,y,z?

The master student met people, who carried with them the most absurd stories. In the end twelve portraits and twelve interviews became the result of Paul-Ruben’s search for answers. Answers to the question of what the piece of land where we were born, grew up and lived really mean for us, and what it means to see this belonging confirmed on a piece of paper.

Seçkin was born in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. His father insisted that he got the Turkish passport instead of the Turkish-Cypriot one. This passport is called “fantasy passport” because the UN does not recognise the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus as a sovereign state.  That means that the entry with this passport is just possible in few countries. Seçkin now lives with the Turkish passport in Istanbul. If he wants to go home for a longer period, he has to apply for a visa. A strange feeling.

A further person from Paul-Rubens portraits series, Sevinç, needs a residence permit for the allowance to stay in the country where she was born and grew up. Her parents come from Azerbaijan and Russia. She has the Azerbaijani passport. Every two years she must go to the public authorities and apply again in order to live on in Turkey, in Istanbul, in her homeland. It was the decision of her parents. Now Sevinç does not want change this anymore. Istanbul is her hometown. And everyone here comes from somewhere else. Besides Sevinç is enrolled in the university as a foreign student and would lose her university place, if she would become a Turk.

The German Passport as a Gold MasterCard

If you have the choice to choose between two citizenships, your decision often depends upon which passport has the better features: Which citizenship gives you greater opportunities, with which one do you live cheaper, which one offers more freedom? And at the same time you realise how random nationality is. It seems to be like lottery. Depending on the regulations of states it is just a question of your birth place or the nationality of the parents whether you are Turkish, Russian or German. Over the course of the project Paul-Ruben has figured out quickly that the German citizenship is like a jackpot. Offering homelike security and almost boundless freedom to travel, the German Passport is almost a MasterCard Gold which opens doors and opportunities in minute cycle. And this passport is just bestowed on him, a passport that was neither his decision nor his achievement. And behind this passport there is a concept that shows how the world is divided, how value is assigned and how a particular order is created.

Paul-Ruben has used the flags as symbols of nationality. He draped them through photoshopping and printed them on projection sheets, which he fixed on the projector. “Little by little these sheets have become scratched”, he tells. “This was, of course, not my aim but the effect was visually fascinating and provided much more symbolically.” The flags merged with each other and dissolved.

And in the end this is the message that Paul-Ruben wants to transmit. Flags, nationalities, citizenships, these are constructs, which do not play any role once people want meet truly. He thinks: “All that counts are what people keep in their heart, not what is on paper.”

Text: Marie Hartlieb Translation: Serap Güngör

The Runaway Italian Magician of Constantinople

Giovanni Bartolomeo Bosco (1793 – 1863) was an Italian magician who did not belong to the art of illusionism according to family tradition, but he became renowned thanks to his dexterity and ability of astonishing spectators.

One of his merits was the change in clothing. His predecessors tended to use an oriental dress with wide sleeves, this in order to easily disguise any objects used for their magic. Bosco appeared on the stage with a short and tight-fitting jacket, with snug sleeves. This attire denied, at least in seeming, the presence of tricks and hidden objects in the clothes.

Bartolomeo Bosco LithoIn Robert-Houdini’s memoirs, the author mentions Bosco as his rival and he describes him as a magician who conjured in bizarre costumes on a stage crowded with tools and decorated with skulls and candelabras, declaring that the tasteful style chosen set his performances apart from other conjurers.

The biography of the illusionist is presented in a booklet of 48 pages, entitled “Satana,  Universal collection, biographical, anecdotal of the adventures of Bosco from Turin, Teacher of Prestidigitation (“Satana, Raccolta universale, biografica, aneddotica delle avventure di Bosco da Torino, Professore di Prestidigitazione”).

The anonymous author seems to rely on personal memories as a witness, but it seems that he also used newspaper clippings, collected during the copious performance of the artist. Indeed, if it is not the magician itself, the author of the booklet is a person very close to the magician.

The book narrates that after his studies in Turin, Bosco enlisted in the Napoleonic army taking part of the campaign of Russia. In 1812, he became a captive, confined to Siberia. During his imprisonment he discovered his extraordinary talent for performing. He made exhibitions for the Russians, for which he got paid,  and he used his earnings to alleviate the suffering for himself and his comrades.

In 1814, he returned to freedom and he began his artistic career as conjurer.

In addition to his biography, the booklet recounts the many adventures Bosco encountered during his travels: the meeting with the Sultan of Constantinople, the meeting in St. Petersburg with Tsar Nicholas of Russia, the prestidigitation’s lessons given to the Dutch Minister of Finance Van Bosse and so on.

The narration, usually very celebratory, becomes ironic very often, taking as example Bosco’s escape from Constantinople, in order to avoid a request from the Sultan Abdülmecid I. The last one have seen previously a number of illusionism in which the magician beheaded two doves, one white and one black, and then he made them reappear alive but with the displaced heads on switched bodies (black on white and vice versa). The Sultan demanded to the artist to make the same trick with two slaves, one Ethiopian and one Circassian.

Giovanni Bartolomeo BoscoAfter that Bosco grabbed his sword, he raised it in the air and he took some time with this gesture. Then, he lowered the sword and asked the Sultan a preparation period of three weeks during which he would have to collect certain herbs that needed to be used during the number. So, the Sultan granted an extension, but after just eight days Bosco managed to escape to Russia.

In the biography of Bosco, cunning is reiterated in many cases as the talent that has been essential in order to survive in dangerous situations.

The name of the magician is linked to Istanbul also thanks to a renowned Theatre placed in the city. The stage which became the Naum Theatre has been originally built by Bosco with the intention of putting on a variety performance. He leased the land belonging to the Naum family and he named the establishment rather aptly Théâtre Bosco. However, after Bosco left the city in 1841, the ownership of the building passed to the landowner Michael Naum. After completing the restoration works, he reopened the theatre with the name Péra Theatre in 1844.

Bartolomeo Bosco died in Dresden 1963 and he was buried at the Catholic cemetery of Friedrichstrasse. After that Houdini found out that Bosco’s grave was dilapidated, he bought the grave. He handed it over to the Society of American Magicians, beginning a tradition of guardianship that continues until today.

References:
Silvestrini, E. (2005) Il romanzo della piazza. La Ricerca Folklorica, No. 51, Antropologia dell’acqua, pp. 149-156
Solomon, M. (2006) Up-to-Date Magic: Theatrical Conjuring and the Trick Film. Theatre Journal, Vol. 58, No. 4, Film and Theatre, pp. 595-615
Araci, E. (2011) Naum Theatre: the lost opera house of Istanbul. Turkish Area Studies Review, issues 17 and 18
B. Di Porto, Bosco, Giovanni Bartolomeo, in: Dizionario Biografico degli Italiani, vol. XIII

Motocross Jump Record on Bosporus

Freddy Peters, freestyle motocross rider from Berlin, astonished his Istanbul audience by making a 21-meter jump from ship to ship on 25 May Wednesday, setting record on Istanbul’s Bosphorus Strait. The event was sponsored by an energy drink producer and was held for the first time in the Bosporus Strait which divides continental Asia from continental Europe.

Freddy Peters, who has been riding bikes since 3 years old, warmed up by making three preliminary jumps, and then for the record-setting attempt he made the jump between two ships anchored off the Sarayburnu shore where the home of Ottoman Sultans, Topkapı Palace, is located.

Speaking to Anadolu Agency, Peters said he made several jumps in different countries such as Brazil, Israel, Russia, Namibia and South Africa and was very happy to perform the jump in Bosphorus which has been a waterway of the highest importance since ancient times. He said “Istanbul is a unique city for me. There are many beautiful places where I can perform, such as the Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace. I was impressed with the Basilica Cistern and I would very much like to make a similar jump there,” He also stated that riding motorbike in Istanbul’s “crazy” traffic is “a peculiar experience.”

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Special Bus Lines Opened for Trekking Lovers

IETT (Istanbul Electric Tramway and Tunnel Establishments) sets up Istanbulites with nature by its D1 and D2 bus routes that have recently come into service. From now on, those who oppressed of chaotic environment of the metropolis can freely set out a journey into the deepest natural beauties of Istanbul’s hick towns, and discover the pleasure of going trekking whose benefits to health have proven by authorities.

The D1 bus route’s beginning is Kadıköy and it terminates in Polonezköy (also known as Adampol). Polonezköy is a small village founded in the middle parts of the 19th century by polish settlers. It is located about 30km away from the city centre in Beykoz (a district on Istanbul’s Asian side).

The D2 bus route’s beginning is Beşiktaş and it terminates in Belgrad Forest. Belgrad Forest is a deciduous forest that lies about 15km and forms the northeast lands of Istanbul’s European side. It’s a unique area for several recreation activities such as trekking, jogging, and hiking. D1 and D2 routes are going to be on service only on the weekends in spring and summer seasons.

Departure Times of D1 Route

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Kadıköy Departure

06:30

10:00

14:00

18:00

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Polonezköy Departure

08:00

12:00

16:00

20:00

 

Departure Times of D2 Route

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Beşiktaş Departure

06:30

08:45

11:20

14:00

16:40

19:20

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Belgrad Forest Departure

07:30

10:00

12:40

15:20

18:00

20:40

Sanctified Legends of Hagia Sophia

People of all languages, religions, and backgrounds can pray together in a tolerant environment. This is not a myth, it is reality in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, in a unique work of art, leaning back on the deep blue sea and monumental architecture. It is by far, the world’s most beautiful and precious jewel, a sacred temple gifted to all humanity from the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I: The Hagia Sophia.

The story of this magnificent monument located in the old city centre of Istanbul is just as interesting as its appearance. The Hagia Sophia was rebuilt after the Nika Revolt, in a construction period of just four years and ten months. Due to the fact that plenty of columns and materials were still available from before parts were demolished, the building could be reconstructed swiftly. However, legend has it these building materials were not brought in from just any building, but from the Temple of Solomon, a common tale to be told among the Byzantine people. Unfortunately, we cannot claim this to be true, however, we do know that the new and glorious church became reality in 537. This was specified by the Historian of Procopius[1], he also stated that Emperor Justinian was referring to the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem, which strengthens the myth. According to the tradition Justinian exclaimed: “O Solomon!  I passed you!”. This is the symbolic expression of the relation between Justinian and Prophet Solomon, which is now still to be found on the Emperor’s Gate of the building. In addition to this link between the two buildings, they also share other similarities. Both temples were built on sacred grounds, and they are known to be some of the most sacred temples in the world.

The mysteries and legends of the Hagia Sophia are not just engrained in the structure of the building which were built by one person for the worship of human beings. Instead, the holy shrines legends are transmitted from generation to generation. According to a legend, Emperor Justinian was not happy with the architectural projects presented to him wen rebuilding Hagia Sophia. The story goes that during a religious ceremony he grabbed a piece of bread which was then taken away by a bee. Everybody in the empire started to look for this bee and the piece of bread, which belonged to the emperor. The person who would manage to return the bread would be rewarded. When the bread and bee is finally returned, both are stuck inside a honeycomb, which is shaped like a church. Due to the fact that the holy bread is shared above the altar, and the honeycomb resembles a church, Justinian decides that the Hagia Sophia should be modelled after this divine plan.

Another legend which involves the drawing up of the Hagia Sophia considers Justinian dream. Unhappy with the course of events and the work of the famous architects, Justinian went to sleep one night. In his dream he finds himself on the vacant land on which the Hagia Sophia will be built, on that spot a radiant face appears. The face looks to the left, and remains waiting in one corner. Justinian follows the face, and notices a silver plates in the hand of the figure, on the plate a picture is drawn of a church. It is precisely the image the emperor had in his mind, so he proceeds to pray to God that he can keep this picture in his mind and us it to make the church. When finished praying, the face smiles at him and says: “take this picture, the church made according to his example!”.  Justinian gratitude is great, and he immediately provides the architects with instructions.

Located northwest inside the Hagia Sophia, an interesting column, known as the “Sweating” or “Wishing” column, stands. It is recognizable by the hole in the middle which is covered by a bronze plate. Aside from its appearance, it is said to have healing powers. Legend has it that Emperor Justinian wandered in the building with a severe headache, after leaning into the column he realized it had disappeared. The story spread among the general public and the myth regarding the healing power of the column persists up until today. Perhaps you should visit the Hagia Sophia and try it. It supposedly works when you put your finger in the hole and rub the spot on your body that holds the disease. However, this is not the only story that makes its rounds about this spot. The Ottoman legend tells the tale of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror with Hagia Sophia. After the fall of Constantinople, he performed first Friday Prayer in Hagia Sophia by the imamate of Akshamsaddin, who is his mentor. However, they were unable to start the prayer due to the fact that the building was not faced to Kaaba. The legend tells that Khidr (a figure described in the Quran as a righteous servant of God possessing great wisdom or mystic knowledge) appeared at that moment, attempting to move the building so that it would face Kaaba. When one of the people saw Khidr, he was unable to complete this. To this day, people make their wishes by rotating their thumb a complete clockwise tour inside the hole. This symbolizes the act of Khidr.

The ‘Sweating Column’ is not the only column in the Hagia Sophia that has a mysterious history. One of the columns has some mysterious hand figures on it. The origin of these hands is unknown, but they are rumoured to belong to the Virgin Mary. However, this is not the only story, rumour has it that the giant who returned the column from Mount Qaf (it is a mythological mountain of ancient Muslim tradition renowned as the “farthest point of the earth”) gave it the signature hit. In general hand figures are one of the most ancient talismans. For centuries people believed they had protective powers against bad magic and evil spirits. The first examples of hand figures were found in Çatalhöyük and Hacılar, Neolithic settlements in the Anatolia, and also in Chauvet and the Lascaux Caves.[2] This explains why this column is surrounded by so much mystery and stories.

In addition to beautiful stories behind the columns, you should also look up when you enter the Hagia Sophia; the domes boast the depiction of angels, one in each corner, painted so that their feet are placed on the upper level of the largest dome. The angels depicted are better known as Jibril, Mikail, Israfil and Azrael. Upon the birth of the Prophet Muhammad, the angels spoke to him from their mouths located in the middle of their stomachs. Each spoke about their own region; Jibril announced what happened in the east, Mikail told about enemies in the west, Israfil knew the future of the north, and Azrael gave news of the death of a variety of rulers throughout the world. These prophecies, said to be depicted on the columns which belonged to the angels, allegedly ceased to exist after the death of Prophet Muhammad[3].

As this article demonstrates, the Hagia Sophia is riddled with secrets which are there for you to unravel. There are probably still numerous legends which are unknown to us. From that perspective, this building may be Justinian’s greatest present to humanity.


[1] Procopius, Byzantium’s Secret History: Istanbul, 2008, p.38-40.
[2] Erhan, A. Ve Pelin, Ç. (2016). Ayasofya’nın Gizli Tarihi: Beyaz Baykuş, Istanbul, p.51-52.
[3] Günümüz Türkçesiyle Evliya Çelebi Seyahatnamesi: YKY, Istanbul, 2003.

10 Photos of Old Istanbul: 1910s in Istanbul

Balloons were the first mechanisms used in air warfare and France was the first country who had successfully flown balloons in the last quarter of the 18th century. The Ottomans were behind developments. This photo which was taken in Talimhane in 1910 shows one of the first balloon experiments for the Turkish Air Force. It rises above the Istanbul skyline, and the curious crowd watching it.

 

Barry family was one of the Levantine families in Constantinople, with roots going back to England and Italy. The father of Albert Barry, Joseph Barry, was the court dentist during the reign of Sultan Abdulhamid II. Albert Barry also was the dentist, worked in his office at Mısır Apartment in Beyoğlu until his death in 1962. He was also interested in photography. As he is not in the photo he may be the photographer of this photo which shows the Barry family at Büyükada around 1910-12.

 

Sultanahmet Mosque or popularly known as the Blue Mosque has always been the Istanbul’s most touristic attraction along with the Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, Basilica Cistern and Galata Tower. This mosque has five main domes, six point three minarets, and eight secondary domes. It is said to be the last great mosques of the classical period. This photo shows the Blue Mosque in 1919. Despite my research, I couldn’t find any information why there’s no crowd around the mosque.

Swiss brothers named Adolf and Walter Bomonti moved to Istanbul and established a brewery for a beer. It was Turkey’s first major beer factory, built in Istanbul in 1890, and later moved the factory in 1902 to the Bomonti neighbourhood. This photo shows the people enjoying their beer in the garden of Bomonti Beer Factory in the 1910s.

The “Sick Man of Europe” for over 100 years, Ottoman Empire joined the Central Powers and entered World War I on October 28, 1914. The decision of the Ottoman Empire to enter the First World War was a catastrophic mistake which resulted in the empire’s occupation by the victorious allies. This photo is proof of this horrible mistake as it shows the occupation of Constantinople. The British troops of the “Army of Occupation of Constantinople” are awaiting General Allenby on the İstiklal Street in January of 1919.

It is safe to say that there was no place such abundant in fish as the Bosporus and there was no place where there were so many taken. Once upon a time, fishing dominated life in Istanbul thanks to the fertile sea which surrounded the city on three sides. The most common fish spicy was mackerel which migrated annually between the Aegean and the Black Sea. When they were on the way, Istanbul strait was full of migrating mackerel and it was a feast for the fishermen in Istanbul. This photo is proof of this feast as fishermen are beaching the mackerels easily on the shore of Bebek neighbourhood.

A great photo shows a panoramic view of Istanbul. You can see the Kabataş neighbourhood, the ferries are crossing the Bosporus, the famous Maiden Tower is apparent, and the Üsküdar neighbourhood is in the background. It is safe to say, Istanbul was not a concrete jungle that is evident in the photo!

This is one of the most beautiful photos from the beginning years of 1910’s. Probably the photographer took the picture from a small boat on the Golden Horn. Here is Fener shore, which looks completely different than its today’s appearance, and with its wooden houses, the neighbourhood looks really amazing in the photo. However, the photo’s most striking attraction is definitely the Phanar Greek Orthodox College which is called as The Red School by the locals.

This photo shows two coolies are on the Galata Bridge. No way to know what they were carrying or for whom but their financial situation is evident if we compare their clothing with the man on the left, who was wearing shoes of high quality, black long coat and fez, a truncated cone made of red felt.

This photo is witness of the Sultanahmet Demonstrations which was a milestone for the national awakening for Turks to give a start to Turkish Independence War.  It was series of rallies in 1919 at Sultanahmet to protest the occupation of İzmir by Greeks after the Ottomans lost the First World War. This photo was taken on 23 May 1919 and published by the newspaper Hakimiyet-i Milliye.

The Story of Turkish Hip Hop

Hip hop songs usually talk about experiences of the street life in a ghetto and portrayals of black men and women in society. It was at least like that in the 70s and 80s when hip hop was not a commercialised business. Turkish people couldn’t catch up with hip hop during the time. They had no idea about DJ Kool Herc or Grandmaster Caz or Afrika Bambaataa. That only changed during the late 1980s and early 1990s known as the “Golden age of hip hop”.

When the Turkish youth finally heard the first Turkish hip hop songs in the mid-1990s, they didn’t hear anything about ghettos, street experiences or black men. It is not because the Turkish people love going against the grain, but simply because the environment in the Turkish Hip Hop songs were not comparable to the South Bronx or other such areas. Essentially, Turkish hip hop could not relate to any of characteristics that initially gave birth to hip hop in America. In fact, Turkish hip hop was popularised not in Turkey, but in Germany. So why is this such a unique tale?

Hip hop is a street subculture, which needs a fertile environment to germinate. In the 70s when hip hop culture started to take shape in the United States, Istanbul’s new urban migrants who brought their village to the city (metaphorically speaking) developed a domestic subculture in Turkey. The urban migrants of the 70s danced to melodic and emotional arabesque songs that expressed their pain, frustration, desire, and love. Turkey clearly was not fertile for hip hop culture to evolve during that time.

Turkish Hip-Hop

The conditions of the Turks in Germany were worse than the migrating families in Istanbul. During 1960s a huge crowd of people from Anatolian villages migrated to Germany as guest-workers, but they settled in ethnic enclaves instead of returning back to Turkey, primarily because they hoped for a better future in Germany. In the 1980s, the teenagers of the migrants ran into many social, cultural and political problems in Germany.

The conditions of Turkish youth in Germany became the backdrop to the Turkish hip hop culture, which emerged in the ethnic enclaves of Germany instead of the streets in Istanbul. It is no surprise that the first Turkish hip-hop songs used folk beats, made use of the arabesque style, and contained lyrics revealing the problems faced by Turks in Germany.

Alper Ağa’s “Bir Yabancının Hikayesi” (“The life of the stranger”) was said to be the first recorded Turkish hip-hop song. The first Turkish hip hop album was released by Dj Mahmud, Volkan T, Murad G and KMR in 1994. However, it was Cartel, the first Turkish hip-hop band, who crossed the borders of Germany and introduced hip hop to the Turkish youth.  Initially Turkish youth found their music odd, but soon it was accepted and popularised in Turkey. Cartel even gave a concert at Beşiktaş’s İnönü Stadium; the show was the first and last hip-hop stadium concert in Turkey, which is said to be the second most crowded concert following Michael Jackson’s legendary appearance. Unfortunately, Cartel faded away in the twinkling of an eye, yet still inspired and influenced the manifestation of the hip hop culture in Turkey.

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Cartel – “Cartel” (1995)

The last years of the 1990s, Turkish hip-hop became more popular in the country. Cartel’s two members Erci-E and Karakan released their first solo albums in 1997. Following them, Islamic Force released their first album which was a milestone for Killa Hakan as he drew all the attention, owing to his lyrical content and rap style. Rapor 2, one of Turkey’s first hip-hop artists, also made a comeback and broke new ground with his new song, “Çiz” (Draw), featured with popular rock band Radical Noise that is considered as the best Turkish hip-hop rock crossover ever.

In 1999, a Turkish hip-hop collection album “Yeraltı Operasyonu” (Turkish Hip Hop Movement) was released and it was very notable success as the most popular rappers of the decade took part of this music project.

From the beginning of millennium onwards Turkish hip-hop grew in popularity. A new generation of artists emerged. Names like Basemood Records, Kadıköy Acil, Sansar, Pit10, Şehinşah, Saian, Karaçalı, Allame, Jontürk, and Da Poet pioneered the creation of underground hip-hop in Turkey. They also promoted hip-hop culture; break-dance, beat box, graffiti and clothing quickly seeped into Turkey.

Meanwhile, a few hip hop artists were enjoying fame in the country. When Sultana’s first music video “Kuşu Kalkmaz” (His Bird Can’t Fly) was forbade by government, where a few TV channels banned her music from airing, the female hip hop artist Sultana suddenly became the trending topic in the country.

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Sultana – “Kuşu Kalkmaz” (2000)

However, The Istanbul rap group Nefret (Hate), consists of two rappers in their twenties, Ceza (Punishment) and Dr. Fuchs, who were the most popular and respected hip hop artists in Turkey. They released such an album that went beyond the hip-hop fans. One of their most famous songs was “Istanbul.”  Despite the success, the friendship between duo was damaged after Dr. Fuchs went away for mandatory military service.

Ceza continued his solo career, released his “Rapstar” album, which paved the way for him. At the pinnacle of his career Ceza performed at Rock’n Coke festival and took part of a lollipop TV commercial. Not only did hip-hop fans criticise him, but Sagopa Kajmer said that he wouldn’t have licked a lollipop for money. Since then, the fight between these two most popular hip hop artists has continued.

Sagopa Kajmer’s lyrical and rap style was completely different compared to Ceza’s. His song “Al Bir de Burdan Yak” was the soundtrack of the most popular movie in the country – Cem Yılmaz’s GORA – the legendary comedy movie in Turkish cinema. GORA helped create awareness for hip hop among an audience that had not been exposed to it before, which is his greatest contribution to the hip hop community.

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Ceza & Sagopa Kajmer – “Neyim Var ki?” (2004)

By mid 2000s Turkish youth were wearing baggy hip-hop clothes and having freestyle battles on the streets. You could walk in the streets of Kadıköy and Bakırköy and sense the hip hop culture; finally, it found an environment to grow in.

From the mid-2000’s onwards the Turkish hip hop artist also started to find place in the music market as well as on television. Hip hop was at its highest peak. It had reached so far, but also a milestone which affected highly the future of hip hop in Turkey. The worst problem was that hip hop media didn’t exist; mainstream media had no interest with Turkish hip hop, popular radio stations advertised only a few hits from the same names, and journalists didn’t report or write about Turkish hip hop.

The real deathblow to Turkish hip hop came from a few pop failures and a few famous names such as Ümit Davala, Aziza A and Dezz Deniz who emerged on stage and faded away after they defaced Turkish hip-hop. It is yet to be understood why football player Ümit Davala came forward as MC. Yes, Ümit Davala! But why, is beside the point, they both did more harm than good the genre.

All these new developments worried important hip hop names who thought Turkish hip-hop was going downhill. However, time proved them wrong. A great number of upscale works on hip-hop continued to come in view. The Istanbul rapper Jonturk’s cooperation with legendary leftist souls such as Leman Sam, Cezmi Ersöz and Nejat Yavaşoğulları for a hip-hop album was definitely a feast. Ceza’s “Yerli Plaka” album is also worth mentioning as it was great result of cooperation with famous names such as Tech N9ne, Sammy Deluxe, Eko Fresh, Killa Hakan and Turkish pop queen Sezen Aksu. Meanwhile, Turkish underground rap started to gain fame off of great works by Cashflow, Modo XL, Pit10, Sansar, Saian, Norm, MT, to mention a few.

In the first years of 2010s a new generation of artists emerged while the old veterans such as Ceza and Fuat stayed silent. Ceza made a pause until 2015 and then he released his “Suspus” album. This year also witnessed Turkey’s biggest Hip Hop festival “HipHop Jam Istanbul 2015”. From the new generation of artists, with the help of his lyrics, style of rap and video-clips, Fate Fat proved that he is the future star of Turkish hip hop. Another golden rapper is from the capital Ankara – Ais Ezhel – his great mixture of hip hop and reggae makes him unique. Istanbul has also great names that are carrying hip hop music in Turkey. Among them Sansar aka Salvo, cannot be counted as new generation of artists, but no Istanbul rapper now can drop him from the Constantine Walls.

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Fate Fat – “Bizik 3” (2011)

Apparently, the future of hip hop in Turkey is linked with the underground hip hop scene. Not only Fate Fat, Ais Ezhel and Sansar but there are many greater artists who carry hip hop music in Turkey. The political and social situation in Turkey is becoming increasingly worrying which opens doors for Turkish hip hop artists. But, if they follow the trend and produce commercialised hip hop songs, they probably won’t gain much recognition and respect. For now, it can be said that hip hop in Turkey is not full of optimism but it’s rich and turbulent history suggests otherwise.

Kuştepe: The Nest of Crime or Not

The neighbourhood of the back of Trump Towers is Kuştepe. It is generally defined as a demolished ”gecekondu (shanty house)” area. The stereotype about that neighbourhood is that it’s “the nest of crime”. We conducted a research about Kuştepe to find out its current life. Our main target is to answer the question, “Is this stereotype true?”

To find the true information about this neighbourhood we passed through the “first” village headmen (that which we call “muhtar” in Turkish), as well as the small grocer in the neighbourhood (“bakkal” in Turkish). Our first interview started with “the tea” that the muhtar treated us to. He is not the most pleasure with Kuştepe unfortunately. He complained about the crime rates and the safety problem of the neighbourhood. He said: “most of “low middle class” in Kuştepe just surround their places by wire because of the thieves, they not only steal stuff, money etc. from houses but also destroy the gardens”. Also he remarks the case about the diversity of ethnic groups living in Kuştepe. He said:” Most of the settlers belong to the same origin, they are generally Romani. But the cultural habits are different in a one sense so they generally don’t like each other.” The interesting point is that although they are all from same origin and they have nearly same cultural behaviour, items etc. they don’t get along together.

The old culture of the neighbourhood is generally safe in Kuştepe. The Romani settlers are very welcoming, when we enter the streets they define us as “strange” and tried to help us. They welcomed us in their houses. Most of women were washing carpet on streets, the children were running around. The joy of neighbourhood is still there in comparison to most of other İstanbul neighbourhoods.

However, we encounter the phobia of other as the muhtar mentioned above. “Other” in that case means someone does not belong directly one’s own group. It is xenophobe. For instance, one can be Romani who come from Kayseri however the other for someone who is also Romani but from different region let say Trabzon. One of the residents, let’s call her Ayşe Yenge, welcomed us to her home and she talked about the “other”; Kuştepe got a lot of migrants. The original neighbourhood settlers generally moved from there because of the corruption of the migrants. The street of X and Y (I hid the original name of street to avert the possible discrimination), are not safe. Most settlers of these streets are thieves and they are dirty people. As you see we are not in contrast to general stereotypes against Romani’s. The dirty one is others.” So, you can see the point of “the other” in Ayşe Yenge’s speech. She is Romani but the people who are also Romani but live in X and Y streets make them other. The settlers not from these street create “we” for Ayşe Yenge, and she also in that “we”.

Kuştepe was not originally settled as a “gecekondu” neighbourhood. Before 1950’s in Kuştepe, the settlement was sparse. During the demolishment of gecekondu neighbourhoods in 1950, hundreds of people had to leave their houses, they were faced with severe life- threatening and the only solution to their problems was to come together and form associations. In 1951 the association called “Şişli Gecekondularını İhya ve Güzelleştirme Derneği” was formed, the head of the association, Naim Tanyeri, explained their purpose as reconstructing the “gecekondu” buildings which were substandard and illegal, with the help of municipalities and related authorities. That would help the settlers to live in proper environment and standards as every citizen deserves.

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The efforts of this association could be considered as a struggle. Every step they took were peaceful and legal and yet they were shut down several times but they did not stop. They wrote letters to authorities, they organized legal demonstrations and finally, in 1953 law No. 6188 passed, municipality owned lands were going to be allocated to needy families. They discussed specifications of the law with authorities, and tried to obtain the most beneficial outcome for the settlers. People who used to live in gecekondu districts in Zincirlikuyu, Vefa and Esentepe settled in Kuştepe and this is how Kuştepe was created. During the first years of settlement after the law passed, the situation in Kuştepe was unpleasant. The region lacked the necessary infrastructure, some families had to live in tents for months because the construction period was taking a long time. With the efforts of the association, living conditions got better and in several years the infrastructure investments were completed.

When we look at the demographic structure in Kuştepe, we see that it is a mixture of different ethnic groups. Romani people, “Kayserililer”, and “Karadenizliler”, constitute the majorities in the area. According to the settlers, there is tension between the groups due to several reasons, each ethnic group has its own “kahvehane”. Even though the bonds within the groups are strong, it is hard to talk about solidarity of all settlers in Kuştepe.

In 1997, Bilgi University settled in Kuştepe. The university conducted several researches in the area with the purpose of understanding the needs of people and finding ways to improve the living standards in Kuştepe, volunteers from the organizes many educative seminars and workshops for the settlers. Also scholarship opportunities were offered to students from Kuştepe. In 2006, however, due to financial issues, Bilgi Education and Culture Foundation sold 50% of the University to an American firm which doesn’t share the same social philosophy with the foundation.  Most of the faculties in Kuştepe have moved to Santral Campus, since then Bilgi University became less active in Kuştepe.

Kustepe Ederlezi

Kuştepe is a product of a non-governmental organization and the head of the association “Şişli Gecekondularını İhya ve Güzelleştirme Derneği”, Naim Tanyeri, was actively involved in eight different non-governmental organizations, he worked very hard to turn Kuştepe into a pleasant place for its settlers.

This was the situation in 1950’s and 1960’s. Today, however, we don’t see any evidence of such unified organizations. There is one association, Kuştepe Romani Art House, which could be considered as “active”. Unfortunately, there is no proper website of this association, we gathered the information from the head of the association, M.S.Ş, and from the settlers in Kuştepe.

The art house was opened in 2014, it provides classrooms for activities organized by volunteers outside of Kuştepe. However, the art house itself doesn’t have an organized structure, volunteer groups have to prepare their own schedule and work accordingly.  The association doesn’t provide any information about the needs of the settlers to the volunteer groups– the actually learned that no one has knocked on the settlers’ doors and inquired about their needs and problems.

There is an ongoing project in Kuştepe run by Boğaziçi Social Service Club, volunteer students organize the workshops themselves for children with Romani culture. What is more problematic here is that as mentioned above, Kuştepe has a mixed demographic structure and there is tension between the ethnic groups. So a “Kayserili” family, for example, claim that they do not want to send their children to the “Romani” Art House. M.Ş.E., the head of the association, claims that there is no ethnic discrimination within the association, all children living in Kuştepe are welcomed to participate in the workshops. However, according to the short interviews we conducted with the settlers, we have reason to believe that other ethnicities living in Kuştepe does not share his opinion, they say: “The name of the association is Romani Art House, of course we feel discriminated.”

Kuştepe Kids

We observed a similar structure of the patron client relationship in the case of urban renewal plans regarding Kuştepe. From our interviews with the settlers and with the Şişli Municipality, we learned that the municipality plans an urban renewal project in some parts of the Kuştepe district which are the regions with highest crime rates and worst economic conditions. The fact is that most settlers in those areas actually want an urban renewal project with the condition of not being left without a house. They rely on the associations to defend their rights and the municipality is trying to make a deal with the associations. What is questionable here is that whether the outcomes will be to the settlers’ best interest or not, since this particular chain of patron- client bonds is very open to corruption.

At the end of this article, I would like to answer the question above: “Is this stereotype true?” … Actually, to figure out that, there is no necessary to check the crime list of the police officer. Find someone who lives there for a while is enough. Most of settlers normalize “the voice of siren that belongs to police cars… However, we could not define as a place that attracted by police is as a “nest of crime”. Shortly, Kuştepe is not a “nest of crime”; It is a poverty-torn area that fosters space and reason for crime; there is little opportunity for education and a different way of life. The interventions that have tried have failed, thus it remains forgotten. There is no job opportunity as most settlers say for their children, youths, and others so they push to sell drugs, or stealing to survive. This is my view. What about yours?

In colloboration with Remziye Aslan and Sueda Evirgen.

Top 10 Inspiring Women of Istanbul

Over the last few centuries the history of Istanbul, formerly named Constantinople during the Byzantine and Ottoman Empire eras, was marked by key feminine figures. These women succeeded to overcome prejudgements from the societal level, from men’s stereotypes that were totally against any feminist manifestation, be it public or private, and most importantly, from the limitations produced by a social fabric immersed in conservatism. Their achievements are even more significant than their correspondents from Europe and the United States. So much so that two strong forces were against their endeavours in almost any domain of life:  the Islamic ideology and the overall women’s lack of credibility as capable agents of social change.

After making this synthetic preamble, it is worth mentioning that our Top 10 List will be completed in accordance with a reversed chronology, starting from contemporary feminine personalities and going back in time to remarkable figures of the second millennium. Having incredible self-confidence, mental force, open-mindedness and a desire to produce major changes, these women have inspired entire generations through their unquestionable accomplishments and determinations in both Middle Eastern countries and all over the world.

 

10 – Anna Komnene (1083-1153)

[su_quote]The stream of Time, irresistible, ever moving, carries off and bears away all things that come to birth and plunges them into utter darkness, both deeds of no account and deeds which are mighty and worthy of commemoration. Nevertheless, the science of History is a great bulwark against this stream of time; in a way it checks this irresistible flood, it holds in a tight grasp whatever it can seize floating on the surface and will not allow it to slip away into the depths of Oblivion.[/su_quote]

Anna Komnene was a Byzantine princess, scholar, physician, hospital administrator and historian. She was the daughter of the Byzantine emperor Alexios I and his wife Irene Doukaina. Her masterpiece is called Alexiad, an account of her father’s reign, which is unique in that it was written by a princess about her father.

 

9 – Fatma Aliye Topuz (1862-1936)

[su_quote]The whole life is about Dream and Truth.[/su_quote]

Fatma Aliye Topuz had interests in different domains of science and cognition, but she is widely known as an essayist, columnist, a women’s rights activist and a humanitarian. Her accomplishments in writing five novels, has credited her in the literary circles of Istanbul as the first female novelist in the Islamic world and in Turkish literature.

 

8 – Halide Edib Adıvar (1884-1964)

[su_quote cite=”Ellison Grace Mary, An English Woman in a Turkish Harem, 1915″]… she has opinions on most subjects and discusses the problems of the day in a manner which charms one not so much on account of what she says, but because it is so different from what one expected.[/su_quote]

Halide Edib Adıvar was a Turkish nationalist, novelist and political leader for women’s rights. She is recognized all over the world for her novels criticizing the low social status of Muslim women. She has identified the low social status of women as a consequence due to the lack of interest from most women in changing their situations.

 

7 – Nezihe Muhiddin (1889-1958)

[su_quote]It’s time for the Turkish women to receive their rights and political equality.[/su_quote]

Nezihe Muhiddin was an Ottoman and Turkish women’s rights activist, journalist and writer. As a political leader, her status allowed her to become the founder of the first party of the Republic of Turkey, which was suggestively called, Women’s People Party or People’s Party of Women in July 1923. Due to the political climate during that time, the party was not recognized, but that did not stop Muhiddin for she founded the Turkish Women’s Union and continued her fight for political equality. She spent all her life struggling to improve the quality of the lives of Turkish women.

 

6 – Safiye Ali (1891-1952)

[su_quote]Treating our wounded soldiers in war for me meant, healing Turkey and contributing to the greatness of our Republic.[/su_quote]

Safiye Ali was the first Turkish woman to become a medical doctor after her graduation at Robert College in Istanbul. She treated the soldiers in the Turkish War of Independence, the Balkan Wars and World War I and in 1922, she opened her own office in Istanbul.

 

5 – Nuriye Ulviye Mevlan Civelek (1893-1964)

[su_quote]One of the excuses of men who want to prevent women earning their own living is that they say women are not properly educated and have no experience. Do all tradesmen go to the trade school? Do they have higher education? The truth is that most of them are illiterate.[/su_quote]

As a women’s rights activist, journalist, suffragist and founder of the first feminist women’s magazine and Muslim women’s rights organization in Turkey, Nuriye Ulviye Mevlan Civelek, is considered one of the most important defenders of feminism in modern world history by many scholars around the world. She was the first woman to own a publication in Ottoman Turkey and her magazine was the first to publish a photograph of a Muslim woman.

 

4 – Feriha Tevfik Dağ (1910-1991)

[su_quote]Turkish women are beautiful and I have proved that.[/su_quote]

As a beauty pageant contestant and actress, Feriha Tevfik Dağ, is best known for being the first Miss Turkey in 1929. Marilyn Monroe, the famous American model and actress, was always compared with Feriha for her charm and similar beauty.

 

Halet Çambel

3 – Halet Ҫambel (1916-2014)

[su_quote]Our coach was a German girl, a swimmer. She told me: I will introduce you to Hitler. But I just told her not to.[/su_quote]

Halet Çambel was a reputed archaeologist and Olympian fencer, being the first Muslim woman to compete in the 1936 Olympic Summer Games. As professor of Archaeology at Istanbul University, Halet played a key role in the decryption of Hittite hieroglyphics, while also active in promoting the preservation of Turkey’s cultural heritage.

 

Sertab Erener

2 – Sertab Erener (1964 – …)

[su_quote]Love doesn’t die.[/su_quote]

As one of the most successful female singers in her homeland, Sertab Erener is one of the divas of the Turkish pop music scene and a cross-over soprano. On the European continent, she is best known for winning the 2003 edition of Eurovision Song Contest with her hit song “Every Way That I Can”.

A native of Istanbul, she achieved the utmost performance in her musical career after working with Turkish music icon, Sezen Aksu. In 2009, she created a band called Painted on Water and released a self-titled album in the United States, producing an unexpected impact in the US music industry.

 

Elif Şafak

1 – Elif Şafak (1971 – …)

[su_quote]In Turkey men write and women read. I want to see this change.[/su_quote]

Elif Şafak is the author of eight novels and is Turkey’s most widely read woman writer. With exceptional work that has been translated into more than 30 languages, she was awarded the honorary distinction of Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters in France, 2010. She writes fiction in both Turkish and English, dividing her time between Istanbul and London.

Blending Western and Eastern traditions of storytelling, Elif has interests in different areas such as, minorities, women rights, immigrants, youth and subcultures, cultural politics, Sufism and philosophy. She is also conscious about the literary discrimination between the East and the West, mentioning that, “A white male, middle-class American writer can experiment with form and choose any subject he wants, but a woman writer coming from Algeria or Tunisia should produce stories that fit into a certain cultural box.”

 

 

In limiting ourselves to only 10 female personalities we might have missed many other courageous and inspiring women, but we are really looking forward to your suggestions and contributions in adding to the present Top Inspiring Women of Istanbul List.

References
1- Binder, Charlotte and Richman, Natalie (2000), “Feminist Movements in Turkey”. Cambridge University Press, p. 123-205.
2- Wilkinson, Tracy (January 9, 2007), “Taking the honoUr out of our women”. Los Angeles Times.
3- Sever, Aysan (January 2, 2015), “Feminist Analysis of HonoUr Killings in Rural Turkey”. University of Toronto.
4- Questions and Answers on Women’s Rights, prepared by the Turkish government for the Human Rights Agenda Association in 2009.

Food, Spirits and Gastronomic Traditions in Byzantine Constantinople

The latest trend of living of grid, in self-sustainable houses, might not be so new after all. Going back to the Byzantine Era we see that self-sufficiency was key to households of that period in time. Families cultivated basic vegetables, and were breading their own animals (mainly poultry) to ensure their survival. The diet in those days consisted of a breakfast or prophage, the main meal; lunch or optimum, and dinner. All of this eaten with hands, or perhaps a scoop or spoon, as forks were only invented in the 10th century, and even then rarely used until later on. You can imagine that in larger cities, such as Istanbul, a sustainable lifestyle created some challenges. In the Byzantine Era, Istanbul was populated by over 500,000 inhabitants. So what were the main elements of a Byzantine meal?

BREAD

Bread has such an important role in the Byzantine diet that the guild of bakers of Constantinople was exempt from attending any public functions to avoid possible interruption of the production process. There were two categories of bread, the silignítēs and semidalitis. The first, silignítēs, was produced with extremely meticulously milled and sieved sitino flour. Silignítēs was the whitest bread and the most expensive type of bread of these years. Semidalitis on the other hand, was made by durum wheat. The types of bread were different. For example, there was the wholemeal bread, named grimy, the buns made with oat flour and wheat whole meal rye bread. Rich people usually ate silignítēs.

LEGUMES (PULSES) – VEGETABLES

The cheapest and most common foods for the majority of the population were vegetables and legumes. Given the long fasting periods laid down by the Church, with which they complied, these foods were eaten for a long time by the whole population. Large consumption of sprouts, leeks, onions, beets, lettuce, radish, carrots, peas, and rockets. Potatoes and tomatoes were not yet known, they arrived in Europe many years later. The fact that the pulses could be maintained for a long time allowed the arriving in big cities but also in remote regions of the empire. The most common pulses were the beans named “fasoulin”, the broad beans named “koukkia”, the lentils named “faki”, the “loupinaria” and chickpeas named “revithia”. Large consumption seems to have the wild grasses and bulbs.

SOUPS
After the conquest of Byzantium by the Crusaders (1204), eating habits seem to vary, both from Western influences and the economic crisis that followed. Soups and broths with a variety of vegetables, legumes, fish or corned meat seems to be formed a common choice for the Byzantine households of the 13th century.

EGGS

The chicken eggs were a common food in Byzantium Era. The eggs were eaten boiled, baked, and fried of raw. People prefer the eggs of pheasants than the eggs of goose, dusk and partridge.

FRUIT and NUTS

Fruits and nuts were the dessert of the Byzantines. The common fruits of this period were figs and grapes. As for nuts they usually preferred the chestnuts, the almonds, the peanuts and the pinecones (pine nuts).

MILK AND CHEESE

Milk products also present at the Byzantine table. They made milk by sheep’s milk, goat’s milk, cow’s milk, and buffalo’s. They also used milk in order to made yoghurt, cheese and butter. The written sources mention several varieties of cheese, such as cottage cheese, , the Cretan and the famous “Vlach cheese” and the low quality “asvestotyron”.

OLIVE AND OIL

During the Byzantine period, olives were a very popular, junk and Lenten food. The olives were preserved in brine (Almades), in vinegar or honey. Known also were the “receding” (crushed) and the “droupates” (Throumpes). Widespread was the use of oil in cooking.

SEAFOOD

In the Byzantine Era, they used to eat boiled fish, grilled fish and fried fish. They usually made a kind of seafood appetizer, called “pure” with squids, octopus, shrimps, scallops, barnacles, mussels, oysters, sea urchins etc., which were cooked with different ways or eaten raw.

MEAT AND POULTRY

Meat was not a common food for the Byzantines. Not only because it was rather rare and expensive, but also because the fasting dictated the Christian religion, for half day time. As it comes to meat, the most popular was pork, which was usually cooked in various ways. They also ate lamps, cattle, deer and hares.  The variety of the poultry was great. It was meat that they ate more than any other. They prefer to eat ducks and geese. There were especially breeding peacocks, because the fact that this bird was the pinnacle of the ruling class preferences.

SAUCES

Every meal was frequently accompanied by sauces. Most of the luxurious sauces were oil-based or butter- based. The most popular was a Byzantine sauce called “garos” which was produced from fish offal, gills, fish blood, salt, pepper and old wine.

SEASONINGS and SPICES

There were some dominant flavours in the Byzantine kitchen, amongst those were oil, fat, garlic, milk, vinegar and the various sauces. As it comes to spices the most commonly used ones were oregano, mint, pepper, celery, leek, dill, rosemary and cumin.

In addition to that some more exotic spices, such as cinnamon and nutmeg. Byzantines were specialized in a type of mustard that they would eat with fish and meat. A final addition to their pallet of spices was a saffron named crocus.

Let’s have a….desert

The basic element in a desert was fruit (apples, pears, dried and fresh figs, cherries, grapes, melons etc.) and nuts (walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts). Cakes also took a prominent position on the Byzantine desert table. As a sweetener, honey was often used. The byzantine era was known for a number of pastries, for example the sesame, the moustopita (jelly), the quartered (quince paste) various jams and a kind of pancake names Laganas, or Lallangi. Laganas is known for its layers, combined with almonds, walnuts and honey. Sounds familiar? That’s possible, because it’s known to be the ancestor of baklava.

Let’s Drink…. Wine and other drinks

Byzantines used to drink wine and they had a great variety. Names of wine were linked to the region they originated from. A famous drink was a mixture of old wine, honey and pepper. Other traditional alcoholic drinks were cider, myritis, perry and foinkitis.

 

TWO RECIPES

Starting to build up an appetite after reading about all these delicious ingredients? Cook one of these two recipes based on the Byzantine cuisine, or, if you find this too challenging, pick up some Baklava, it has Byzantine origins!

Rabbit cooked in wine or vinegar:

The Byzantines loved to cook  rabbit in red wine or vinegar with the addition of pepper, cloves and valerian. To enhance the flavour, they added a little pork fat in the process. They used to serve it with the “myttoton”, a kind of dressing which consisted of chopped garlic cloves, mixed with oil and paste of black olives.

Ornish (Hen) monthylefti:

They left a chicken for a few hours in wine or vinegar with spices (pepper, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg). After they choked with bread crumbs, almonds and other condiments. Often, they added raisins, pine nuts and chopped mushrooms. Simmer chicken in wine or baked in the oven inside a tightly sealed clay pot, after the well rubbed with butter. A common dressing for this food was a sauce made of mushrooms. They cut the mushrooms into slices, and then they put salt and pepper. They fried it with pear slices.

Love on Canvas: How A Swiss Artist Came to Istanbul in the 80s

We are sitting in the living room of the Swiss artist Ursula Katipoglu in Kuzguncuk, a calm quartier of Istanbul. There are paintings of hers and of her husband on the walls: Ursula´s paintings are showing colourful abstractions mostly of mountains and cities. Yusuf´s paintings, in contrast, are telling stories in sober colours. Ursula is originally from a rural region of south-east Switzerland, and Yusuf comes from Trabzon. They have been living and painting in Kuzguncuk for over 35 years.

Let us start from the beginning of the story: In 1978 Ursula and her friend came to the north-east province Trabzon at the Black Sea for vacation. There Ursula met one of the few artists of the city, the painter Yusuf Katipoğlu. Back in Switzerland, she organized an exposition for Yusuf with a friendly gallery owner to which Yusuf went with the slides of his works one year later. One year and many letters later, Ursula decided to move to Istanbul and continue her artistic career in Turkey.

Ursula Katipoglu
Ursula Katipoglu

Together with Yusuf she rented an apartment in Kuzguncuk and started to discover the city on the Bosporus through numerous excursions with the eyes of a curious artist. Especially her impressions about Istanbul´s architecture changed the style of her works in the course of the first years: In Switzerland she had received a classic art education and had also worked with traditional glass painting but now her art became more and more abstract. Ursula talks about market stands which were still covered with fabrics sewn together from different and varicoloured materials back then. “Such impressions were transformed to abstract paintings on the canvas.”

However, what did it mean for a Swiss artist to come to Turkey in the 80s? Ursula remembers: “Then, there was a pretty closed art community, less impact from Europe and just a few art galleries.” In contrast to Europe, painting had just a few well-known representatives in Turkey and no sweeping tradition. The Turkish appreciation of art was limited to craft-work like carpet weaving, fabrication of embroidery or the production of crockery. Even today it is an exception to put paintings on walls instead of religious messages, wedding pictures or kilims.

Although Ursula´s colourful oil paintings aroused huge interest in the art scene of the 80s among “dark, more melancholic paintings”, as she describes, she and her husband could not afford their living only through art and the money put aside was hardly enough for one year. Therefore, they exhibited their works in Switzerland now and then. In answer to the question of why she has stayed in Istanbul and not returned to Switzerland, she says promptly and clearly: “Yusuf couldn’t stand living there.”

Swiss Artist Istanbul

Has she missed anything? Yes! For a long time, she could not join discussions and participate in more serious conversations, which was because of two reasons: On the one hand, language courses were hardly in demand during the 80s, the time of the military coup in Turkey. On the other hand, she focused rather on visual aspects as an artist. Hence, it took her a long time to have command of the Turkish language. For the education of her two sons, she prioritized then the Turkish language in order to offer them, as children of a foreigner, a linguistic uniformity and therefore avoid confusion. Moreover, she did not see any necessity to teach the boys Swiss German. Standard German is a kind of foreign language for her although it is familiar to her sons

Swiss Painter Ursula KatipogluUrsula tells us that till this day money is not spent for art in Turkey, there are rarely collectors and art classes in schools are unfortunately not seen as important. The artists of Kuzguncuk draw back more and more. Touristic hypes prevail in the nostalgic quartier at the base of the Bosporus bridge. Ten years ago Ursula tried with other artists to carry art on streets; however, her opinion is that today just the newly rich buy “decorations” without any interest for art.

In the past ten years Ursula and Yusuf exhibit successfully in the gallery in Kuzguncuk often times, but in Switzerland their last organized exhibition was ten years ago. High custom stipulations turn exhibitions outside Turkey to a very expensive undertaking.  Yet, within the framework of a family organized and consciously small exposition they could again present their works there in fall 2014.

Ursula wonders sometimes: “What would I have done if I had stayed in Switzerland?” and she answers pleased: “I think that Turkey was good for me.”

We leave the final word to her. “You may also say that young art gets more in demand but old artists don’t want to face up this hustle and bustle of competition. I think you´re getting slowly older,” she says and laughs.

Text: Cornelia Belkin, Tuğba Yalçınkaya Translation: Serap Güngör

Istanbul Finally Takes Its Place on Internet

Following Berlin, London and New York, Turkey’s largest city, Istanbul will have its own online address from 10 May 2016. The new domain gTLDs of Istanbul, which are “.ist” and “.istanbul”, are open for registration by anyone by the 10th of May, 16:00 (UTC).

Up to now, there was a pre-request period (5th of April-5th of May) and if there’s only one application for a domain during the pre-request period, that domain is awarded to the applicant. However, in case of multiple applications for a domain, the domain goes to auction which takes place online between 5th and 10th of May.

According to Bekir Kaplan, media relations manager in Istanbul agency, the new domain extension will put Istanbul on digital map. The mission of this project is to encourage innovation, improve service levels of government institutes and enterprise, assist residents in locating city government services, help local businesses to thrive, market and promote tourism in the Istanbul, and spread the dynamic image and the brand value of Istanbul around the world.

The sales of the “.ist” and “.istanbul” domain extensions are said to be the third best-selling city domain after New York and London. It is stated the domains have already been snapped up by global brands such as the BBC, BMW, Versace and WhatsApp.

Those who are interested can visit www.nic.istanbul to register their names.

Additionally, we would be glad to announce that as We Love Istanbul family, we also have new domain addresses now as  www.welove.istanbul

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Engravings of Ottoman Istanbul

During the 18th and 19th century the westernisation in the Ottoman Empire gained momentum. The Sultans started to reside in the palaces which were built in rococo or baroque styles, the Ottoman officials started to wear trousers and jackets, the visibility of Ottoman women and men mixing together in public spaces grew. While this was the case within the empire, it was the time of exploration of the orient by occidentals. Therefore, Istanbul became a popular destination for Western travellers who often wrote travelogues centred on the Ottoman Empire. These travelogues usually contained a great amount of engravings which occupied an important position on making the westerns acquainted with eastern culture.

Here are some of the most famous engravings illustrating the Constantinople during the 18th and 19th century.

Coffee-houses were first opened in the Tahtakale neighbourhood by two merchants of Arab origin, were Hakem of Aleppo and Sems of Damascus. They became a place for socializing and remained popular within the empire for centuries. Ottoman coffee-houses were extremely important and very popular so that Amedeo Preziosi didn’t skip drawing it. However, it is obvious that he used his imagination on this painting because there was no way for a woman working in a coffee-house in the Ottoman times. Honestly, this is not an unexampled as many of Western artists used their imagination on their works, especially on their harem paintings.

Since its establishment, Grand Bazaar has always been of great interest to Western artists such that you can’t find any travelogue that doesn’t contain a text and engraving of this bazaar. This is because of the oldest and biggest covered market in the world which offered an incredible visual richness and diversity, which can also be found in the work of Maltese painter Amedeo Preziosi. The clothing of Ottoman people is evident in the painting as well.

Antoine Ignace Melling was a German artist and traveller who moved to Istanbul in 1784 and worked as an imperial architect to Sultan Selim III. In his life in Istanbul, he made many detailed drawings of the sultan’s palace, Ottoman life as well as Constantinople itself and its environs. His works on Constantinople was published as “Voyage pittoresque de Constantinople et des rives du Bosphore”. This work by him is one of the most beautiful engravings as the architectural beauty of the Fountain of Mahmud I is very evident. However, not only the architectural beauty makes this engraving unique but also Melling included several social scenes in this work.

Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk claims in his book “Istanbul: Memories and the City” that Melling saw the city like an Istanbulian but painted it like a clear-eyed Western. Probably, no one would disagree with Orhan Pamuk. In this engraving, you see a beautiful view of Constantinople during the beginning of 19th century. At that time, Istanbul was called “the city of minarets” and Melling obviously wanted to show this to the westerns with his engraving.

You may not believe this but here is Taksim where is the most popular art, entertainment and night-life centre. In this engraving by the German artist, you see the Pera Gardens which was opened as Istanbul’s first public garden. As it is understood, this area was known for entertainment even in the 18th century. A view of Bosporus and the existence of a coffee-house where people could drink a Turkish coffee can be seen in the engraving too.

Thomas Allom was British architect and illustrator who arrived in Istanbul in 1834 and produced hundreds of drawings centred the sultan’s city. His work on Istanbul was published as “Constantinople and the Scenery of the Seven Churches of Asia Minor” in 1838. This drawing of him is one of his most popular works on Istanbul as the work shows the interior of the Hagia Sophia during the prayer time.

Kuleli Military High School was built in the 1840’s by the orders of Sultan Mahmud II after the abolishment of the Janissary corps in 1826. Unfortunately, only a few years later the towers of this beautiful building on the Asian shore of the Bosporus were destroyed because of the fire disaster. Almost 100 years the building stood without towers despite its name “Kuleli”. However, the engraving of Kuleli Military High School by Thomas Allom was so impressive that the government was convinced to rebuild towers in 1965 and the work of construction ended in 1968.

Eugene Flandin is French orientalist painter who produced many numbers of great paintings of Constantinople during the 19th century. His interest was the important monuments in the city so each of his work shows one of the Istanbul’s monuments such as Süleymaniye Mosque, Topkapı Palace, Beyazıd Mosque and Eyüp Mosque. This work which is called “Pont de Bateaux” shows the first Galata Bridge which was constructed in 1845 by the mother of Sultan Abdülmecid and used for 18 years. It was also known as the Cisr-i Cedid or New Bridge as there was another old one further up the Golden Horn.

Obviously, Eugene Flandin also visited the Asian part of the city. This work of him shows us the port of Üsküdar. In the background, there are Üsküdar’s best-known landmarks; the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, also known as İskele Mosque or Jetty Mosque, which was designed by architect Sinan, and the fountain of Ahmet III, the 18th century public water, built in Ottoman rococo style.

In this engraving of Eugene Flandin, the focus is the Yeni Cami, meaning New Mosque in English. Originally named New Valide Sultan Mosque, New Mosque was the most popular mosque in Istanbul during the 19th century. Famous Spice Bazaar, Istanbul’s one of the most popular tourist attraction, was also built as a part of New Mosque complex. There was a busy market in the courtyard of this beautiful mosque, but however Eugene Flandin passed over this market as we can see only a few people.

Joseph Schranz is Austrian painter, the son of the painter Anton Schranz, who is known for his snapshots from everyday life in Istanbul during the 19th century. In this painting of him, you can see the traditional Ottoman cemetery, possibly at Üsküdar, and the variety of tombstones with motifs that provides information about the deceased.

This engraving of Joseph Schranz is one of his most beautiful works with great details. In this engraving, Dolmabahçe Palace was portrayed in detail. Beside the sultan’s palace and the Bosporus, you can notice the apparel of ordinary Ottoman people as well as the waterside mansions on the Asian shore.

There’s no great information about the Italian painter Jean Brindesi. What we know about him is that he produced two great albums namely “Toures de Constantinople” and “Souvenir de Constantinople” which centred the life in Constantinople and the clothing of Ottoman officials such as sultan, the Janissaries and Kapudan Pasha (admiral). The artist died in Istanbul on 7 May of 1888. In this engraving of him, you can see the court of Kılıç Ali Pasha Mosque at Tophane and in the background Nusretiye Mosque.

Jean-Baptiste Mour was a Flemish-French painter who is remembered for his portrayal of Constantinople during the Tulip Era in the Ottoman history. He was also asked to record Dutch ambassador’s audience with Sultan Ahmed III on canvas so he was in the palace during the ceremonies. In this painting, the grand vizier Nevşehirli Damat İbrahim Pasha crosses the hippodrome. The interesting thing in this painting is the appearance of the Blue Mosque.

Charles Pertusier is French artillery officer and one of the suite of the French Embassy at the Ottoman Porte. He is best known for his engravings as well as the travelogue book “Promenedas Pittoresques dans Constantinople et sur les rives du Bosphore” (1815). This is one of his most famous engravings which shows the Military Barracks in Taksim. You can also see the public fountain on the right and the Muslim cemetery on the left of the Military Barracks.

Superstitions: Benchmark of Ottoman’s High Culture

Top 10 superstitious beliefs and practices of Turkey

Enjoy reading an article with a rare selection of superstitions to help you have a cultural journey through the country.

When talking about superstitions there are hundreds of them widely known in Turkey. Depending on the regions of Turkey some superstitions are used more often than others. By used I mean they are being mentioned when it suits to the context or when an action takes place, accordingly. Some of those are known internationally such as a mirror that is broken may bring bad luck.

Some are typical for Turkey such as the meaning of number 40. Turkish people believe this is a lucky number and if you say anything 40 times it will come true. The origin of this number’s belief comes from the facts that Mohammed was 40 years old when he received the Quran, Jesus wandered the desert for 40 days, Ali Baba fought 40 thieves and the Ottoman military band has 40 musicians. If somebody keeps repeating what they say, e.g. a girl denying to love the boy, her friends might joke and say if you deny it 40 times you will actually stop loving him.

Beliefs about the nazar, also known as evil’s eye or blue eye, is the most widely known superstition in Turkey. You will find accessories, jewellery, porcelain and even clothes with the design of nazar amulet anywhere in the country. Turkish people usually believe if somebody looks to you with jealousy, hatred or other negative thoughts it is evil’s eye. Wearing something with nazar amulet is meant to neutralize the negative energy sent to you by others. Although, this is not scientifically proven, to many of us it had happened that we found our nazar amulet broken. Most probably this happens after being in an uncomfortable situation. If the amulet broke it means it has protected you from a bad incident.

If you bid a goodbye to your loved ones who are travelling far away, you pour water after them which means literally “go smooth like water, come back flowing like water “. Normally, it is around 1 litre water in a cup or bowl that you poor after your guests. Nowadays people don’t hesitate adding some sense of humour into it. What they do is, pouring an entire litre of water directly on their beloved friends using the sentence mentioned above. Right after that the clever ones of course run away to avoid becoming a victim of revenge. That is when the others might say “kaçan kovalanır”. It means who runs away will be followed. Turkish people believe the psychology of humans work the way that whoever runs away makes others curious and causes them to follow him. On the other hand, who does not go away and is always there will not be appreciated much because people will take him for granted.

Evil Eye Tree

In order to not make enemies Turkish people will not hand another person a knife or a scissor. They will rather put the sharp object down and wait for the other party to pick it up. This is a way of avoiding involving into trouble with the other person in the future.

Traditional Turkish people tend to start any activity on the right side. Besides of sleeping on the right side like our prophet Mohammed used to do it, they also get up on their right side in the mornings. From washing their hands to entering a house, they always start with the right hand, foot or simply the right side. This legacy comes from the Roman times of Ottoman Empire. In Latin, right means ’dexter’ and left is ’sinister’.

This is also why if your right hand is itching it means you will receive money and if the left one is itching you might lose money.

The ’kitchen community’ has also invented quite an amount of Superstitions. Until date it is a habit amongst the elderly that when many are getting together at somebody’s house the ladies switch to the kitchen for a gossip and to not make the living room too crowded. For example, if you put a knife down and by coincidence it lands with the sharp side looking up it means you will soon receive a visitor.

Another belief probably invented by the kitchen community is, after you take a pot with boiling water inside from the stove and put it on a trivet it should stop boiling immediately. If the water continues boiling on the trivet it is a sign of bad luck and one’s enemies might increase in the near future.

There are also plenty of creative superstitious practices related to wedding ceremonies. Depending on the cultural background of the bride’s and groom’s family the practices differentiate from one and another more than one would imagine. Some break Turkish tea glasses before the bride and groom enter their new home in order to keep bad people away and scare evil thoughts off. Actually, every region in Turkey has their own unique way of practising so called nazar in weddings which is meant to keep evil thoughts away and help the couple live happily ever after.

One common wedding pursuance is that when the bride is brought to her new home, someone from the crowd will put a child on the lap of the bride or just hand her one if she is standing. The superstitious belief here is that if the kid she is holding is a girl her first child will also be a girl or vice versa.

American Exchange Student Was Raped in Istanbul

A terrifying incident took place at the midnight hours of 29 April in Istanbul. A 23-years old American girl who has been living in Istanbul for educational purposes was raped in the middle of Istanbul. According to the information received, the victim – L.D. – went to a party with her friends. After the party, she shook the spot alone, and hitch-hiked to a car in Mecidiyeköy. Unfortunately, she was abducted and raped by those who picked her up to the car in a forestland in Fulya. After the offence, toughs usurped her mobile phone and run away by leaving her in the roadside.

The terrifying case showed up when the victim – L.D. – went to the police. Police took the statements of young lady and determined the detailed description of suspects. Police teams found her mobile phone in a cell phone store in Şişli. Due to the research conducted by police, the L.D. of suspects were determined. Subsequently, suspects were arrested and took into police station by police. The age assessments showed that one of the two suspects is 21-years old and the other one is 17.

According to police reports, suspects refused the rape claims in their statements, and claimed that the victim voluntarily got in their car and had sex with them.

Upon the completion of processing in police station, suspects were brought into the court.

Labour Day: What Happened in Istanbul?

In the run up to May 1, discussions regarding where the Labour Day celebrations would take place in Istanbul are prominent. Unions and trade associations decided to celebrate Labour Day in Bakırköy as the government has forbidden Taksim Square for celebrations.

Chairmen of DISK (Confederation of Progressive Trade Unions), TMMOB (Chamber of Mechanical Engineers), KESK (Confederation of Public Labourer’s Unions) and TTB (Turkish Medical Association) conducted a meeting with governor Vasip Şahin, and tried to decide the exact location of Labour Day celebrations. After the meeting, Kani Beko who is the chairman of DISK made a short statement on behalf of labour organizations in front of the governor’s office, and said “Governorship didn’t lean towards us to celebrate Labour Day in Taksim Square. Therefore, we are going to come together with the unions, trade associations and political party representatives in order to determine the location of Labour Day celebrations.”

After the meeting of labour organizations and political party representatives, they decided to celebrate Labour Day in Bakırköy due to the increasing terrorist threat. In addition, they stated “We had a talk with governorship about taking necessary security precautions in the meeting area”. According to the governorship’s statement, approximately 25,000 police were on duty.

Labour Day Affected Traffic in Certain Neighbourhoods

On 1 May, Taksim Metro Station and Taksim-Kabataş funicular railway were out of service. Also, Taksim Square and İstiklal Street were closed to traffic. In Beyoğlu neighbourhood, İstiklal Street, Tarlabaşı Boulevard, Mete Street, Gümüşsuyu Street and Sıraselviler Street were closed to traffic. Also, in the European side of Istanbul, traffic redirections applied in certain streets and neighbourhoods such as Unkapanı Bridge, Karaköy, Kasımpaşa, Dolapdere, Şişli and Beşiktaş.

News and Events from Labour Day Celebrations

Celebrations in Bakırköy started with the gathering of activists in an assembly area at around 10:00. After Anatolian folk dances, slogans and press statements, a large majority of the crowded dispersed without incident at around 16:00.

This year, compared to previous years, Labour Day Celebrations were uneventful. However, according to Istanbul Bar Association’s statement, 169 Activists were taken into custody by police by the reason of staging an unpermitted demonstration.

Unfortunately, a sad event took place in Taksim neighbourhood. A riot control vehicle crashed into a 57-years old man in Tarlabaşı Boulevard. The victim, Nail Mavuş, was hospitalized after the accident. Despite all efforts of healthcare personnel, he lost his life in hospital.

 Labour Day in İstanbul Violence

Terrorist Actions overshadowed Labour Day Celebrations

On the other hand, terrorist attacks which hit Gaziantep and Kilis overshadowed Labour Day celebrations in the whole of Turkey. The Turkish public was shocked by the news coming from Gaziantep and Kilis- two south-east cities of Turkey- . At the morning hours, terrorists belonging to ISIS attacked to the Gaziantep Police Headquarters by a bomb laden vehicle. As a result of this terrorist attack, 2 police officers were killed and 19 police officers were wounded. Simultaneously with Gaziantep attack, 2 rockets which are launched by ISIS militants from Syria fell into the centre of Kilis. Luckily, it didn’t cause any loss of life.

Almost Half of Istanbul Covered With Forests

Istanbul, the biggest metropolis of Turkey, hosts several plants and species due to its natural parks, groves, recreation areas and forest lands.

According to the announcement of the Governorship of Istanbul, our city possesses 240,353 hectares of forestland, which corresponds a 45% of the city’s total area, which include 126 recreational areas, 26 natural parks, 1 natural reserve and 4 wetlands. Due to the proper climate conditions, the Black sea coast have much more forestland compared to the south coast and hinterlands.

Belgrad Forest
Belgrad Forest

Some Best-known Forestlands of Istanbul:

Belgrad Forest, this forest forms the biggest portion of forestlands in European side of Istanbul. It occupies the northern region of European side.

Istanbul Urban Forest, resides in Yenimahalle neighbourhood of Beykoz district and Hekimbaşı neighbourhood of Ümraniye district. The forest involves the Elmalı Barrage. It is one of the biggest forests of Asian side together with Şile Forests.

Kayışdağı Forest, resides in Ataşehir and Maltepe districts and forms an extensive forestland in the southland of Asian side.

Everlasting Taste from Generation to Generation: Turkish Coffee

Turkish coffee is a well-known hot beverage usually enjoyed after the meal especially after the dessert. It is served in unique small cups such as espresso cups called “fincan” traditionally in copper though. Turkish coffee is prepared in unique small pots used only for this purpose, also preferably in copper. You add for each person one cup of water, one tea spoon coffee and sugar as of taste.

Turkish Coffee Pot
Turkish Coffee Pot

The taste of Turkish coffee remains best when drunk without sugar some say. Although for some tastes sugar is necessary. This is why you may order a Turkish coffee without sugar, with medium amount of sugar or with a lot of sugar.

There are several explanations as to why Turkish coffee is served in such small cups. The main reason remains that it used to be a good that was not affordable due to financial deficiency. On the other hand, Turkish coffee is a strong drink with caffeine which can keep you awake by drinking it only in this small cups and more could harm your health especially the ones with heart, blood pressure or kidney diseases.

Since this coffee is very strong you are supposed to drink a small amount of it and enjoy it slowly. Wherever you order a Turkish coffee it is barely possible you will get just a cup of coffee. Usually, it comes with a small cup of still water and a Turkish delight called lokum. Lokum is a sweet in form of a little cube covered with powder sugar. There are many varieties of flavours in lokum like different kinds of fruits, nuts and even roses.

Turkish Coffee and Turkish Delight

You are supposed to drink the water before enjoying the coffee. That helps you taste the essence of the coffee fully some say. The other intention for drinking water in advance is that especially Turkish coffee is hard to digest for the kidneys. By drinking water in advance you help the digestion process. While enjoying the coffee with small sips many read something, enjoy some time off or one can also have a “fiskos”.

So called fiskos is just an old description for ladies’ gossips. Traditional fiskos takes places around a table decorated with handmade laces, delicious Turkish coffee and even sweets. In a fiskos there will be someone who can predict the future by reading the coffee left on the bottom of the cup. For that after the coffee is drunk the cup is supposed to be turned by attaching the cup backwards on the plate. To be sure it is time for the prediction the bottom of the cup needs to be touched. When it is cooled it means your coffee is ready to be fortune-telling. So the conversation gets intense after the bottom of the cup is cold. Firstly, the fortune-teller reads the cup. At last she pours the coffee left on the plate inside the cup and reads the plate.

Turkish Coffee and Fortune-telling
Turkish Coffee and Fortune-telling

Another tradition Turkish coffee is known for its marriage proposals. Whenever a boy and a girl like each other or the parents arrange it, the boys side (i.e. elderly of the boy’s family with the potential groom) visits the girls side. Amongst others the conversation is usually about the boys and girls educational or professional status and the families’ backgrounds as well. Meanwhile the girl will be preparing Turkish coffee in the kitchen. She serves the beverage in a tablet starting from the oldest of the guests. When serving the boy an eye contact is common.

The grooms’ family will get an impression about the girls cooking skills while drinking the coffee. Even by looking at it some can say if it is well prepared or not. If the top of the coffee is very foamy the coffee usually will have a better taste.

In addition, If the girl likes the boy she may add salt into his coffee in advance. Some even add spices. This is a playful tradition to give the boy the message she likes him. If the boy drinks it without complaining, she takes it as a positive message that the boy will endure her no matter what.

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